Bacalao al Pil-Pil: Silky Salt Cod in Olive Oil

Why You’ll Love This Recipe

• A Basque classic with just a handful of ingredients that delivers a luxurious, restaurant-quality sauce.
• Gentle confit keeps the cod silky and succulent while the pan does the emulsifying for you.
• Gluten-free, dairy-free, and naturally elegant—perfect for a dinner party or a quiet night in.
• Step-by-step method removes the mystery from the famous pil-pil swirl.

Grocery List

• Produce: Garlic (6 cloves), flat-leaf parsley (small bunch)
• Dairy: None
• Pantry: Salt cod loins (skin-on), extra-virgin olive oil, dried guindilla chiles, bay leaf (optional)

Full Ingredients

For Desalting the Cod

• 700 g salt cod loins, skin-on (4 uniform pieces, about 150–180 g each)
• 4 liters cold water (enough to cover; change 3–4 times over 36 hours)

For Cooking and the Pil-Pil Sauce

• 400 ml extra-virgin olive oil
• 6 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
• 1–2 dried guindilla chiles, split lengthwise (or 1 small dried red chile)
• 1 bay leaf (optional, traditional in some regions)
• 1–2 tablespoons cold water, only if needed to help stabilize the emulsion

To Finish

• 1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Desalt the cod

Rinse the salt cod loins under cold running water to remove surface salt. Place in a container, cover completely with cold water, and refrigerate for 36 hours, changing the water every 8–12 hours. Keep the skin on and arrange pieces in a single layer so they desalt evenly. After 36 hours, taste a small flake; it should be pleasantly seasoned, not salty. If still too salty, soak another 6–12 hours with a final water change.

Step 2: Dry and temper the fish

Drain and pat the cod very dry with paper towels, especially the skin. If needed, cut into 4 uniform pieces (about 2–3 cm thick). Check for pin bones and remove with tweezers. Let the cod sit at room temperature for 20 minutes; starting from cold oil with fridge-cold fish can inhibit the emulsion.

Step 3: Infuse the oil gently

In a wide, heavy 28–30 cm skillet or earthenware cazuela, add 400 ml olive oil, the sliced garlic, guindilla, and bay leaf. Heat over low to medium-low until the oil reaches 80–90°C (175–195°F). Stir occasionally so the garlic cooks evenly. When the garlic turns pale golden at the edges, 5–7 minutes, use a slotted spoon to transfer the garlic and chile to a small plate. Keep the infused oil in the pan.

Step 4: Confit the cod

Maintain the oil at 80–90°C (175–195°F); you should see tiny lazy bubbles, not a fry. Slide the cod pieces into the oil skin-side down. Cook gently until the flesh just begins to flake and turns opaque, 6–8 minutes. Flip and cook 1–2 minutes more. Transfer the cod to a warm plate; tent loosely with foil. Tilt the pan and note the milky juices and gelatin released—this is crucial for the pil-pil. If there is an excess of hot oil, ladle about 60 ml into a heatproof cup to add back gradually during emulsification.

Step 5: Emulsify the pil-pil by swirling

Remove the pan from heat and let the oil cool down to warm, about 60–65°C (140–150°F). This temperature range helps the collagen-rich juices emulsify with the oil. Holding the pan with both hands, swirl in steady circles so the oil sweeps over the gelatin on the bottom and sides of the pan. Continue 3–5 minutes, and you will see the sauce turn ivory and thicken. If it resists, add a teaspoon or two of cold water and keep swirling. Alternatively, place a fine-mesh strainer in the pan and move it in circles to mimic a whisk. Gradually add back some of the reserved warm oil if you need to loosen the sauce to a pourable, glossy consistency that coats a spoon.

Step 6: Finish and serve

Return the cod to the pan and spoon the sauce over to warm through for 1–2 minutes off heat. Scatter the reserved golden garlic slices and guindilla rings on top. Garnish with chopped parsley. Serve immediately in the pan or transfer to warm plates, making sure each portion gets a generous spoonful of the silky pil-pil sauce.

Pro Tips

• Use skin-on loins. The collagen under the skin is what emulsifies the oil into the classic pil-pil.
• Keep temperatures low. Above 90°C (195°F) the fish can tighten and the sauce may break; emulsify around 60–65°C (140–150°F).
• Dry the cod thoroughly before cooking. Excess surface water can interfere with a stable emulsion.
• Choose a wide, heavy pan. More surface area helps you swirl effectively and encourages the sauce to form.
• If the sauce breaks, remove from heat and whisk in a teaspoon of cold water or a small piece of raw desalted cod skin; then resume swirling.

Variations

• Piquillo Accent: Warm strips of roasted piquillo pepper in the finished sauce for a sweet-smoky Basque touch.
• Green Pil-Pil: Blend a handful of parsley with 2–3 tablespoons of the finished sauce, then whisk back in for a fresh herbal version.
• With Clams: Steam 500 g small clams separately and fold into the sauce at the end for briny complexity.

Storage & Make-Ahead

Desalt the cod up to 2 days ahead; keep it covered and refrigerated in fresh water, then pat dry before cooking. Bacalao al pil-pil is best served immediately, but leftovers keep 1 day in an airtight container in the fridge. To reheat, warm gently on very low heat until just hot; if the emulsion loosens, remove from heat and swirl or whisk in a teaspoon of cold water to bring it back. Freezing is not recommended.

Nutrition (per serving)

Approximate: 480 calories; 35 g fat; 2 g carbohydrates; 36 g protein; sodium varies based on desalting. Values are estimates and will change with actual oil uptake.